This September, the prestigious auction house Bonhams is set to celebrate the enduring legacy of Chanel with a prestigious trio of sales held across New York, Paris, and London. This major auction series will offer a deep dive into the archives of the French maison, featuring a sophisticated blend of signature tweed, high-shine sequins, and opulent gold accessories from the influential eras of Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard.
The auction sequence kicks off on September 7 in New York, presenting a meticulously curated selection of ready-to-wear garments and costume jewelry. These sales represent a unique opportunity for collectors to acquire pieces that defined decades of luxury fashion.
Iconic 1990s Runway Designs and Rare Accessories in New York
The New York installment, titled “From the Vault II,” is scheduled to run from September 7 to September 17. The primary focus of this auction is the celebrated tweed designs from Karl Lagerfeld’s 1990s runway shows. These pieces carry significant historical weight, as similar versions were famously modeled by the era’s “big six” and other legends, including Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, and Christy Turlington.
Beyond the classic textiles, the New York sale will highlight exquisite Métiers d’Art craftsmanship. The most anticipated item is a Chanel birdcage minaudière from the Fall 2020 collection. This architectural gold-tone evening bag features delicate lovebird motifs, a faux-hinged door, and is embellished with multi-tone glass crystals and simulated turquoise. It enters the auction with an estimated value of $20,000 to $30,000.
Other notable New York lots include:
- Wicker Filigree Vanity Case: A Spring 2019 accessory crafted from black patent leather and natural wicker, estimated at $8,000 to $12,000.
- 1994 Silver Sequin Cocktail Dress: A dazzling piece from the Fall/Winter 1994 collection featuring a lace collar and floral pin. This silhouette saw a modern resurgence in pop culture after a similar design was chosen by Olivia Rodrigo for the 2023 Met Gala after-party. It is expected to fetch between $3,000 and $5,000.
Before the bidding begins, Bonhams will host an immersive exhibition at its New York flagship on West 57th Street from August 17 to September 2, transforming its atrium into a dedicated “world of Chanel.”
A Broad Retrospective of Chanel’s Creative Evolution in Paris
Following the New York event, the focus shifts to the “Chanel From the Vault” sale in Paris, running from September 14 to September 24. This expansive auction will feature approximately 400 pieces, offering a comprehensive look at the work of Lagerfeld, his successor Virginie Viard, and the brand’s internal design team.
The Paris selection spans several decades and includes pieces from very recent collections, such as a black knit tweed dress adorned with multicolored sequins from the Cruise 2024 line. Additional highlights from the Paris vault include a Fall 2018 organza and gold Lurex gown and a striking cropped sequined jacket from the 2013 Versailles-themed Cruise collection. Bidders will also find elegant outerwear, such as a long white tweed jacket from the 2023 Monte-Carlo collection, known for its signature rhinestone buttons.
Historical Costume Jewelry and High Craftsmanship in London
The final leg of the series takes place in London from September 21 to October 1. This sale centers on the house’s iconic handbags and an extensive collection of vintage costume jewelry dating from the 1960s through the 1990s.
The history of Chanel is inseparable from its revolutionary approach to jewelry. In the 1920s, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel famously disrupted the world of fine jewelry by elevating “costume” pieces, collaborating with the renowned glass atelier Maison Gripoix to pair imitation pearls with vibrant, poured-glass stones. This Byzantine-inspired aesthetic remains a cornerstone of the brand’s identity today.
The crown jewel of the London sale is a rare filigree snake bangle created for Chanel Haute Couture by Robert Goossens around 1960. Goossens, a legendary figure in 20th-century jewelry, was a master at blending semi-precious materials with metal to create innovative, high-fashion art. This gilt-hinged piece, featuring green glass eyes and intricate filigree work, is estimated at £10,000 to £15,000.
Additional London highlights include pieces from the Lagerfeld era, such as a simulated pearl necklace with a bold cruciform pendant from the Spring 1993 ready-to-wear collection, carrying an estimate of £500 to £800.
Final Thoughts on the Bonhams Chanel Auction Series
This global auction event by Bonhams provides a rare and comprehensive window into the evolution of Chanel. By bridging the gap between Coco Chanel’s early jewelry innovations, Karl Lagerfeld’s high-octane 90s glamour, and Virginie Viard’s contemporary interpretations, the three-city sale offers collectors a chance to own a piece of fashion history that continues to influence the luxury landscape.
