Guram Gvasalia brought a playful, subversive energy to his latest Vetements showcase. Marking the brand’s debut on the Paris men’s fashion calendar, Gvasalia chose to pivot the focus toward womenswear, often styling his men’s silhouettes on iconic female figures. High-fashion veterans like Alek Wek and Sasha Pivovarova took to the runway alongside Sharon Stone, who commanded the asphalt in a pair of patent leather stiletto thigh-high boots and a sharp, masculine-cut white jacket.
The Connection Between Iconography and Design
The choice of Stone as a central figure sparked immediate conversation among industry insiders. Many wondered if her appearance was a subtle nod to his brother Demna’s previous work at Gucci, which referenced the actress’s legendary white ensemble from Basic Instinct. Whether a deliberate homage or a stylistic coincidence, the casting added a layer of cinematic gravitas to the presentation.
An Industrial Atmosphere for the Modern Runway
While the official invitation suggested a standard hotel venue, the actual event took place in a raw, industrial tunnel located beneath the building. This gritty setting served as the backdrop for a high-profile audience that included North West, Maluma, Anyma, and Olivia Palermo. Despite a 45-minute delay, the show launched with high intensity as the model Steinberg emerged in a tailored black suit, moving to a heavy, bone-shaking soundtrack.
Redefining the Brand Through Minimalist Staples
The collection leaned heavily into a “back-to-basics” philosophy, which some found surprising given the brand’s history of spectacle. The lineup featured recognizable, everyday garments such as classic denim, pinstriped shirts, motocross jackets, Harrington coats, and leather trousers. Gvasalia noted that this direction was intentional, reflecting a desire to move away from red-carpet theatrics and return to the functional roots of Vetements—creating clothes meant for the realities of daily life.
The Technical Detail of Reversible “Clothing”
Practicality was woven into the construction of several key pieces. Both the trench coats and Harrington jackets featured reversible designs, revealing a checkered interior when flipped. Interestingly, the interior label shifts from the brand name to simply read “Clothing.” Gvasalia described this understated approach to branding as an “if you know, you know” nod to the label’s inner circle, prioritizing utility and anonymity over overt logos.
Summary of Vetements’ Shift Toward Wearable Luxury
By prioritizing functionality and revisiting foundational wardrobe pieces, Gvasalia is steering Vetements toward a more grounded identity. While the collection utilizes familiar silhouettes, the emphasis on versatility—particularly through reversible outerwear and gender-fluid casting—suggests a strategic focus on longevity and wearable design. This move marks an evolution for the Zurich-based brand as it balances its high-concept reputation with the practical demands of the modern consumer.
