PARIS — As Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez prepared to unveil their debut collection for Loewe, excitement permeated the air. Following a transformative six months in Paris, primarily committed to reimagining the vision of the 179-year-old Spanish luxury brand, McCollough expressed their joy: “Each morning begins with exhilaration because we are genuinely free to follow our creative instincts,” he remarked during an interview.
After a successful 22 years steering Proenza Schouler, the trailblazing New York label they established as students at Parsons, the duo is invigorated by the opportunity to shift focus from the demands of entrepreneurship to exploring their artistic expressions. McCollough described this new phase as revitalizing for their creative spirits.
The duo’s extensive entrepreneurial background remains an asset as they navigate Loewe’s dual challenge: maintaining the brand’s dynamism while upholding its reputation for avant-garde design. The transition, while delicate, presents an opportunity for innovation within an iconic label.
The shadow of former creative director Jonathan Anderson is significant; not only did he leave a lasting impact on Loewe, but he is also currently at the helm of Dior within LVMH. Despite this, McCollough and Hernandez’s approach has shown promise as they unveil their debut collection, blending core aspects of Loewe’s identity, such as its Spanish heritage and craftsmanship, with a fresh, sporty perspective.
Infusing the collection with Spain’s vibrant essence, the designers leaned into a color palette dominated by bold hues reminiscent of the national flag, while also embracing a newfound sense of sensuality—more robust and inviting than previous iterations.
Before the event, insiders were intrigued by a teaser campaign shot in Barcelona by Talia Chetrit, featuring a refined Loewe logo against dreamy visuals, including wet blossoms and abstract images of the collection’s lively spirit. McCollough passionately described Spain as possessing “a heat, a brightness, a fierceness.”
These thematic elements resonated throughout the presentation, incorporating luxe terrycloth in striped designs, blending American design sensibilities with classic Loewe aesthetics—blending practicality for everyday wear with high fashion. Straight-leg jeans were reinvented using ultra-soft, shredded leather, resembling dragon scales.
Returning motifs of sculpted coats were given a soft, glossy make-over with seams cleverly concealed using ultra-thin leather layers, balancing artistry with wearability. McCollough and Hernandez successfully reinterpret Loewe’s legacy through their own artistic lens, pulling inspiration from contemporary artists like John McCracken and Donald Judd to showcase formal purity in craftsmanship.
“We’re not yarn-centric or ceramic-heavy; that was Jonathan’s unique style. We’re here to echo Loewe’s codes in our own language,” Hernandez explained, aiming for an impression that feels distinctly their own while intrinsically tied to Loewe.
In addition to celebrating Spanish craftsmanship, Hernandez and McCollough recognized Loom’s core identity as a leader in the luxury bag sector. Innovative accessories were showcased, from clutches resembling luxury car doors to unconventional drawstring pouches, reflecting the designers’ bold creativity.
While some bag styles received mixed reviews, others, like chic suede satchels with just enough space for a laptop, drew positive attention—possibly echoing the iconic PS1 bag that solidified Proenza Schouler’s earlier success. A bucket bag adorned with whimsical leather mussel shells added a playful touch inspired by the Balearic islands.
Moreover, their approach reinforced Loewe’s identity by emphasizing leather as a primary material throughout the ready-to-wear items. A notable example was a supple leather jacket with a cleverly integrated drawstring pouch, perfect for carrying small essentials—an accessory worth coveting.
