PARIS — Nakedness embodies intimacy, honesty, and vulnerability. Dressing, in contrast, equips us to engage with the world, seamlessly transitioning into the role we’ve chosen or inherited. In the Saint Laurent men’s collection revealed tonight within the exquisite atrium of the Fondation Pinault’s Bourse de Commerce museum, Anthony Vaccarello explored the fine line between dressing and undressing. Drawing inspiration from James Baldwin’s 1956 novel “Giovanni’s Room,” he delved into its raw representation of homoerotic love.
Keeping his vision refined, Vaccarello adopted a strict palette with an elongated silhouette that flowed more freely and gracefully, departing from the rigid, boxy shapes he has previously championed. Waists were cinched, lapels broadened, and trousers widened. “To find relevance in simplicity while embracing black is a challenge,” he remarked backstage just minutes before the show.
Did he achieve that relevance? Partially. The collection exuded sensuality and allure, compelling viewers to engage closely. While it may not have significantly advanced Vaccarello’s inquiry into modern masculinity within the Saint Laurent framework, the subtleties of the designs offered ample discovery. Following a procession of all-black outfits, the designer transitioned to stylish interpretations of the “broken suit,” melding midnight blue with black, black with grey, brown with blue, and integrating chalkstripes with solid fabrics. Striped shirts and ties surfaced amidst the ensemble, with cuffs and collars playfully breaking expectations. Leather coats were complemented with contrasting belts, and long pullovers featured daring scoop necklines. In a bold finale, striped boxers and shirts were paired with thigh-high latex boots.
Every piece was impeccably crafted. Nonetheless, the erotic tension typical of Vaccarello’s past work seemed confined within stylistic choices — the cravats, cuffs, collars, and various Prada-like influences. Typically, one anticipates a level of focus from Vaccarello that is nearly relentless, but this presentation deviated from that expectation. That said, it undoubtedly delivered elegance.
