In one of the most highly anticipated moments of Paris Fashion Week, the Zegna Group heralded the relaunch of the Tom Ford brand with Haider Ackermann’s inaugural collection, which was unveiled on Wednesday night. The fashion world had been buzzing with excitement leading up to the event, and now the verdict from attendees is clear: the collection is a resounding hit.
Nestled within the elegant walls of Pavillon Vendôme in central Paris—where slate-gray mirrored surfaces reflect the sophistication of the space—Haider revealed his vision to a distinguished audience. This venue, adorned with chic banquette seating and a triad of runways, set the perfect backdrop for a collection that promised to blend boldness with elegance.
Haider Ackermann, known for his dramatic flair and innate creativity, was teeming with confidence as he previewed the show, stating, “I knew how I was going to stage the show the first day I started this job.” This self-assuredness was palpable in the air, mirrored by the palpable excitement that surrounded the event. Notably, Ford himself made a last-minute appearance, choosing to sit between Hollywood icon Jared Leto and fashion authority Anna Wintour, a stark contrast to the departure of the previous designer, Peter Hawkins, who launched under less celebratory circumstances—Tom Ford himself had famously withheld his presence due to previous discord.
In stark contrast to the past, Haider was both respectful and self-assured in his approach. His confidence was not unfounded; the collection he presented undoubtedly demonstrated his exceptional talent. In a playful nod to fashion’s sometimes serious nature, he shared a light moment online by posting a picture of himself cozily wrapped in Tom Ford’s branding while reading The New York Times ahead of the show—a clever way to embrace the spotlight and build rapport with fans.
The collection showcased a blend of styles that were at once edgy and meticulously crafted. He debuted hyper-ironed leather ensembles that straddled the line of tradition and rebellion; think sharp, tailored perfecto jackets and fitted biker coats, which evoked the spirit of rock n’ roll with a contemporary twist. For those with a penchant for power dressing, his banker’s suits were refreshingly tough—and then there were those mohair jackets, held together with a safety pin and adorned with delicate white silk roses, making an unforgettable statement.
The makeup reflected a moody, almost cinematic aesthetic with its pale complexion, evoking a sense of intrigue reminiscent of classic spy films. The music selection, too, added layers to the ambiance, featuring haunting notes from Jóhan Jóhansson’s “Good Night, Day,” which deepened the dramatic effect of the collection as models strutted with an air of mystique.
While Haider definitely paid homage to Ford’s signature aesthetic, there was an underlying sentiment that left seasoned attendees yearning for more of Ackermann’s unique vision. The anticipation was there, knowing what he is capable of, but this collection stood firmly as a solid introduction, feeling like a well-calculated move in a high-stakes game.
Zegna’s investment in Tom Ford—a staggering $150 million for a 20-year licensing deal—reflects their belief in the brand’s potential revival. While Ford’s fashion and accessories segment have struggled to find consistent profitability, the stakes were never higher, and this collection needed to deliver.
Ultimately, many left the show filled with optimism and a sense of relief that Haider Ackermann’s venture into the Tom Ford realm holds real promise. Although not an outright masterpiece, the collection was compelling enough to reinforce the notion that a new chapter at Tom Ford has begun, potentially leading to a dynamic future for the brand. Fashion is as much about storytelling as it is about garments, and in that moment at Pavillon Vendôme, a new narrative was woven that left fans and critics alike eager for what comes next.
Image Source: Haider Ackermann @ Instagram
