One label rekindling its essence at Pitti Uomo is Rag & Bone, showcased through the debut collection by newly appointed creative director Swaim Hutson.
After a period of stagnation, Rag & Bone has ignited fresh energy at its presentation within Pitti. Everything, from fabric selection to colors, silhouettes, and attitudes, signaled change.
“I aim to retain the core identity that Rag & Bone has embodied over the years alongside Marcus and David,” shared Hutson. He emphasized the importance of maintaining the brand’s roots in workwear, denim, and tailored pieces.
Hutson mused about blending these three elements for fall 2026.
“This reflects the contemporary man’s style, especially among New Yorkers,” he observed, highlighting a sophisticated blazer coupled with a rugby shirt and track pants.
Much of Rag & Bone’s tailoring is produced in Portugal, similar to a growing number of brands. With a background in tailoring, Hutson strived to avoid a rigid approach by integrating tailored separates with casual wear.
Responding to the query about his onboarding brief, he humorously stated, “Mr. Andrew Rosen conveyed much about the brand’s history without imposing any boundaries,” referring to the prominent New York fashion entrepreneur and the brand’s de facto CEO.
Founded in 2002 with a pair of raw denim jeans, Rag & Bone has returned to its raw denim roots with R&B Raw, an exclusive line. This innovative treatment allows jeans to undergo twenty washes while preserving the integrity of raw denim, ensuring the fabric remains soft and pliable.
“It’s raw denim, but it’s updated for contemporary use,” noted Hutson.
Hutson arrives with nearly two decades of international menswear experience. He initially gained recognition by founding Obedient Sons in New York, later becoming a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. His career includes roles as creative director at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Club Monaco, and Generra, followed by launching The Academy New York—a label that resonates deeply within the fashion, art, and music spheres.
His vision of merging suits, denim, and outerwear has led to styling a denim shirt beneath a suit jacket, a deviation from the traditional Oxford shirt. This subtle yet impactful change coincides with Rag & Bone’s expansion efforts in Europe. The brand is now part of WHP Global, which also owns Vera Wang, Isaac Mizrahi, G-Star, and Joseph Abboud.
Hutson, originally from North Carolina, now calls the Brooklyn Navy Yard district home.
This year, Rag & Bone will launch a boutique in Dubai, building on recent openings in Amsterdam, Germany, and London, expanding to a total of thirty locations. Although primarily a wholesale business, they maintain a strong presence with over 700 outlets and annual revenues approaching $300 million.
Originally launched as a men’s label, women’s wear now comprises 60% of Rag & Bone’s revenue, with menswear accounting for 40%.
Another major focus for the brand is “Miramar,” a new denim line that features a remarkably soft texture akin to terry cloth, with styles that cater perfectly to travelers.
“We’ve opened a couple of small Miramar stores. One is a stunning 600-square-foot location inside Moynihan Train Hall, across from Penn Station, and it has been remarkably successful,” he shared, highlighting the new Manhattan retail hotspot.
At Pitti, Hutson introduced bold new colors, including striking reds and plaids. He showcased innovative proportions with short plaid jackets and chic faded blue chalk stripe ensembles, embodied in deconstructed jackets and stylish urban redingotes adorned with refined RB logo buttons.
Looking ahead, there’s speculation about a catwalk return for Rag & Bone after a lengthy absence.
“We’re discussing it. A runway show would be beneficial. It’s about being confident in our designs. I believe New York deserves a showcase, and as a New York brand, it feels right,” he concluded.
