Paris Fashion Week kicked off with a jolt of creativity and irreverence, reaffirming its position as the heartbeat of global fashion. On a brisk Monday afternoon, attendees flocked to witness a dynamic pairing of emerging and established talent: the graduate showcase from the prestigious Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) and the return of provocateur Victor Weinsanto. If fashion is meant to stir the senses and spark conversation, this opening day did exactly that.
Weinsanto—never one to play it safe—launched the festivities with theatrical flair in a show titled Complètement Givré, a playful double entendre translating both to “completely nuts” and “completely frosted.” True to form, he leaned into absurdity with joy and confidence. Held in the shadowy basement of a decommissioned Holiday Inn at Place de la République, the setting added a sense of secrecy and edge, as though guests had stumbled into a clandestine couture cabaret.
Silver ruled the runway in shimmering bustiers, playful mini-skirts, and longline jumpsuits paired with metallic wigs that bordered on performance art. Models strutted in spiky boots and statement earrings the size of espresso saucers, exuding the kind of unapologetic energy that has long defined Paris’s most daring designers. Even bridalwear got the Weinsanto treatment: corseted gowns flaunting gym-honed physiques and bridesmaids in off-the-shoulder silks with dramatic trains.
If his message was anything, it was this: fashion is for the bold, the misfits, and the dreamers. And Paris, always one to champion the offbeat, welcomed him with open arms.
Meanwhile, a different kind of electricity pulsed through the halls of IFM, where the next wave of fashion visionaries unveiled their thesis collections. These student-led showcases are often unpredictable, a rollercoaster of experimentation and unfiltered expression—and this year was no exception.
Thirteen designers, representing a wide swath of cultures and aesthetics, each presented six original looks, crafting a mosaic of global creativity. Steven Chevalier’s collection, “Out Rage,” channeled flamboyant regality with puffed-up coats in vivid hues, while Reece Liang wowed with over-painted camouflage layered over metallic mesh—a gritty, futuristic vision of streetwear.
Darius Betschart’s cloaks and bloomers added a theatrical punch, while Clémentine Lagadec Thévoux-Chabuel redefined comfort dressing with sweeping knits that engulfed boxing boots in cozy rebellion.
Some designers injected sharp social commentary into their work. Filip Bejek’s cleverly named “Anastasiia Kleptomanov” skewered consumer culture with a tongue-in-cheek twist—a model dragging a transparent garment bag the size of a small car. Rachel Luurssen turned heads with her exaggerated silhouettes, including a sculptural coat that felt more like performance art than outerwear—one onlooker cheekily claimed it outshined Pharrell.
Wenji Wu tapped into whimsy with comic-book-inspired heroes woven into knitwear, while Richard Baldomà struck a more poignant chord. His yellow-and-blue patchwork gowns paid tribute to Ukraine, earning reverent applause from a crowd attuned to the deeper meanings embedded in fabric.
IFM’s graduates didn’t just showcase technique—they told stories, tackled social issues, and bared emotion. It’s easy to be dazzled by sequins and silhouettes, but what makes this show resonate is its raw honesty. Here, in Paris—the city of light and resistance—fashion once again proved itself as both mirror and megaphone.
As Paris Fashion Week continues, this opening salvo reminds us that the runway is more than spectacle—it’s a battleground of ideas, a platform for voices old and new. Between Weinsanto’s gleeful rebellion and the IFM students’ heartfelt explorations, one thing is clear: the future of fashion is fearless, full of feeling, and unapologetically alive.
Image Source: FF Channel @ YouTube
