Serving as the guest couturier for Jean-Paul Gaultier is akin to being tasked with delivering an outstanding thesis on a highly stylish theme. This season, the spotlight was on Ludovic de Saint Sernin, and the feedback from the critics was overwhelmingly positive.
Emphasizing much of Gaultier’s distinctive style—such as corsetry, subversion, maritime opulence, and a recognizable French flair—Ludovic crafted an impressive array of daring and seductive garments that made Gaultier’s own work appear almost reserved.
Throughout the show, which took place in Gaultier’s stunning early 20th-century mansion—originally built as a grand gathering space for workers—enthusiastic fans erupted into cheers and applause.
The show commenced with a striking creation that merged a mermaid dress with a risqué corset, followed by a leotard-corset combination paired with boots reminiscent of ancient Roman centurions. One corset design featured a ship’s steering wheel as a crochet bra, while another model showcased an extraordinary lace galleon hat.
A breathtaking black model made a striking entrance in a fisherman’s net column dress with an accompanying train, underscoring the house’s pioneering efforts in embracing multiracial models.
The sacred and the profane collided on the runway with a rippling muscled figure resembling Icarus, adorned in a cobalt blue sarong and stunning feathered wings courtesy of Maison Février, renowned makers of haute couture feathers who also contributed to another couture presentation from Valentino on Wednesday. A nearly nude lace dress was supported only by an anchor made from sheer fabric, the sole material on the upper body.
There was even a striking duet in crocodile: one model showcased a female knight in exotic skin armor, followed by another in a statuesque metallic gray reptile ensemble that left spectators in awe. Like the rest of the cast, both models exuded joy while donning their creations.
Men, too, had their moment, sporting grommet-finished corsets, including Ludovic himself, who took a lap around the catwalk at the finale, hugging Jean-Paul like a grateful pupil. De Saint Sernin is recognized for his remarkable yet unpredictable designs, but during this show, he was undeniably in his element.
He named the collection “La Naufrage,” which translates to Shipwreck, and the cast’s hairstyles appeared wet and intertwined with seaweed. However, the performance ultimately stood as a triumph.
Navigating the complexities of being a guest in Gaultier’s couture house is always a challenging endeavor, but few have done so with the same passion and expertise as Ludovic de Saint Sernin. While it’s difficult to definitively claim who among Gaultier’s guest designers stands out as the best, with notable past contributors like Chitose Abe, Julien Dossena, Nicolas di Felice, Glenn Martens, Olivier Rousteing, Haider Ackermann, and Simone Rocha, one thing is clear: no one has received a more enthusiastic reception than de Saint Sernin in all the shows I have witnessed.
Image Source: Jean-Paul Gaultier @ Instagram
