Once more, the inventive spirit of Japan stole the spotlight in Paris during the fourth day of the menswear fashion week. This was especially true for the collections by Junya Watanabe Man, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. Each of these designers skillfully adapted their creative visions for Fall/Winter 2025-26, presenting imaginative and impeccably crafted collections.
Junya Watanabe set the tone on Friday morning, showcasing his ability to reinvent his label’s menswear each season. He managed to make even the most utilitarian and commonplace garments appear highly sought-after. This season, the designer immersed his audience in the heart of America, where his models seemed as if they could seamlessly integrate into everyday scenery.
Watanabe’s models, with caps (or cowboy hats) angled low over faces adorned with tufted beards and flowing hair, depicted figures hardened by life’s labor. They were firmly planted in sturdy construction shoes, dressed in jeans—sometimes cropped and rolled—paired with checked shirts and weathered leather jackets, embodying traditional logger attire. For the upcoming winter, Watanabe spotlighted the Mackinaw Cruiser jacket, a staple of American apparel from the Filson brand.
Established in 1897 in Seattle by Clinton C. Filson, the brand initially catered to gold prospectors, later diversifying to outfit various outdoor workers. The Cruiser jacket made its debut during the Alaskan gold rush, receiving its patent from C.C. Filson in 1914. Today, the brand’s original workwear, along with reinterpretations of its classic designs, is valued by both hunters and fishermen.
The Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket has largely maintained its traditional aesthetic since its inception. Characterized by a unique checked wool fabric, it features multiple pockets including one strategically placed on the back. Watanabe creatively manipulated the pockets—experimenting with different materials, textures, and colors. He also played with the jacket’s design, utilizing contrasting materials like wool, denim, cotton, suede, leather, and nylon.
This inventive approach extended to the denim trousers, which featured check wool or leather details. The collection’s utilitarian essence harmonized effortlessly with an ultra-chic preppy flair, evident in cotton and leather vests layered over a wool overjacket with large red and black checks, paired with sophisticated office shirts adorned with regimental ties. For this collection, Junya Watanabe collaborated with Levi’s for jeans and partnered with Paraboot, New Balance, and Hainrich Dinkelacker for footwear.
At Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, French rapper Take A Mic set up a desk at the runway’s end, simulating a television studio environment. When the large screen behind him lit up, the entire backstage area was cast into a shadowy silhouette. A melancholic ambiance pervaded the show, reminiscent of the grunge aesthetics from the 90s. Items appeared slightly dusty, as if they had been unearthed from another era, including a series of military-inspired jackets crafted from faded cotton and expertly bleached jeans.
The silhouettes embodied an eclectic layering of grey fleece pieces (hoodies, t-shirts, and sweaters), checked shirts, and jackets made from flannel or lightweight corduroy. Some joggers and overly baggy jeans displayed sequins and subtle geometric patterns that resembled dust or paint splatters from afar.
Mihara Yasuhiro reimagined many of his classic offerings, introducing a collection of hybrid garments, which were deconstructed and reconstructed with altered proportions and often an unconventional center of gravity. For instance, trousers featured a right side that flared out into a large pocket, perfect for carrying a baguette! The sleeves of certain shirts multiplied and twisted, transforming into scarves that swirled around the models’ necks.
A mix of jackets and shirts integrated to form skirts, while one skirt was crafted from trousers. The sides of a bomber jacket elevated to the garment’s top, replacing its collar. A padded, sky-blue striped shirt expanded into a jacket-like form within a denim outfit.
A playful sense of humor danced throughout the collection, particularly in the whimsical accessories like small handbags featuring banana or ice-cream cone handles, and boots fashioned to resemble tote bags. Luxury handbags, including a black quilted version adorned with two golden chains, offered a nod to Chanel. Similar designs had been presented by the Spanish label Abra just a season prior.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus concluded the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week with a bold collection titled ‘To Hell With War.’ Rei Kawakubo once again conveyed a strong anti-war, non-violent peace message through her designs.
Her youthful models, resembling more like deserters than soldiers, walked the runway to the soulful voice of Nina Simone, who urged listeners to “Let the wind blow through your heart.” This was symbolically reflected in the brand’s new lace-up shoes, reminiscent of clown shoes with an upward tilt, suggesting that the models were either halting or moving backward.
Sporting rasta dreadlocks beneath vibrant turbans and flower-adorned helmets, the models donned uniforms that appeared in disarray. Patterns, colors, camouflage prints, and forms were disrupted throughout the collection. Officer jackets showcased two rows of gold buttons that transitioned into redingotes worn over crinkled silk shirts. Trousers ballooned into voluminous shapes or were cropped into loose, flared shorts. Everything was deconstructed, widened, narrowed, elongated, fitted, or embedded with zippers: some jackets transformed into rounded-trouser designs, while various long skirts were abundant with pockets.
The military-themed fashions blended in with touches of brocade and floral fabrics. Shades of khaki wool and cotton gradually intertwined with textured velvet and denim, nestling into shoulder pockets and the collar of a blue striped shirt. A snippet of green loden fabric was all that remained of some original garments, which combined into vividly colored patchwork coats and jackets, whereas pixelated multi-colored shirts glittered beneath darker outer layers.
Image Source: CatwalkPhotos / Shutterstock
